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Land and Sea Showcases the Beasts of Both Worlds



 

Picture a restaurant that boasts a large, elegant dining room and also has a small space in the back for friends of the owners: a cozy little less-formal area that’s more comfortable than glamorous, with flickering candles and strings of black-and-white-photos and the occasional punctuation of laughter from the chef as he cooks.


Now lose the big dining room. You should have a pretty good mental approximation of the size and atmosphere of Land and Sea, a tiny OKC restaurant with a vast command of the delicious creatures of both its namesake biomes.

The menu makes it easy to hop back and forth between ocean and earth; you can even do both at once via appetizers, say for example the mussels (served in a fragrant coconut sauce) and beef empanadas (the flaky crust is especially nice). The drinks menu probably technically counts as “land,” but a Bold Fashioned (made with Bulleit rye and brown sugar) is a fine accompaniment to anything.
 


Hard as it is to pass up a good rack of lamb – and this one is; it’s overlaid by a rich, redolent tomato chutney – trust the server when he or she mentions the specialty of the house: the potato-crusted sea bass.

It’s an extremely thick cut, perfectly done all the way through with a rich, slightly buttery flavor and firm texture that flakes easily under a fork and is tender on the teeth. The potato crust is slightly herbed, but most of the added flavor comes from the light citrus cream underneath, which is delicious enough to make me scrape the plate clean and then continue scraping in hopes of somehow finding more.

I’m more likely to order a seafood entrée than a steak anyway (despite having lived in Oklahoma my whole life; go figure), and dishes like this make that unconventional predilection seem like a stroke of genius. Seriously, even if you’re the sort of person who wishes more menus had a “turf and turf” option, you should try this fish – it’s wonderful.
 


Both entrees, by the way, were accompanied by some roasted vegetables and a side of whipped potatoes given a mildly piquant pop from guajillo peppers, which I quite liked.

One of the hallmarks of a good restaurant is how reluctant you are to get up and leave after the meal, so that even though you’re no longer hungry you’re strongly tempted to stay for dessert and coffee anyway. We chose the flourless chocolate torte, so dense and rich it’s more like a pudding than a cake; I have no regrets. And we did eventually depart, but not eagerly. It’s a good atmosphere for lingering.
 


This restaurant isn’t chef Sean Cummings’ first culinary rodeo by a long shot, but it’s the first time I’ve encountered his fare – Boca Boca was before my time, and his eponymous Irish pub is one of those missed opportunities I plan to rectify once I lay hands on a time machine. I kept hearing it was great, and I kept thinking I should go, and then one day the chance had disappeared. I don’t imagine Land and Sea will sink beneath the waves of history anytime in the immediate future, but still – I hope you can learn a lesson from my example. Land and Sea is pretty great; you should go. And try the house special. 



Land and Sea

7523 N. May Ave., OKC  |  405.755.2622  |  landandseaok.com | Tuesday-Saturday 5-10 p.m.  |  Closed Sunday and Monday




 

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September 2018

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More than 20 speakers in a one-track session designed for the digital marketing professional, marketer, business owner or anyone interested in branding, PR, advertising, social media, SEO, search,...

Cost: $250

Where:
Tower Theatre
425 NW 23rd St
Oklahoma City, OK  73103
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Sponsor: BigWing
Telephone: 405.475.4185
Contact Name: Janelle Archer
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This year will mark the eighth time the John F. Kennedy Awards have been celebrated, honoring individuals making a significant contribution to Oklahoma, its communities and its people, while paying...

Cost: $300

Where:
Skirvin Hilton Hotel
1 Park Ave.
Oklahoma City, OK  73102
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Sponsor: Santa Fe Family Life Center
Telephone: 405-840-1817
Contact Name: James Timberlake
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More than 20 speakers in a one-track session designed for the digital marketing professional, marketer, business owner or anyone interested in branding, PR, advertising, social media, SEO, search,...

Cost: $250

Where:
Tower Theatre
425 NW 23rd St
Oklahoma City, OK  73103
View map »


Sponsor: BigWing
Telephone: 405.475.4185
Contact Name: Janelle Archer
Website »

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Price Tower Art Gallery in Bartlesville will host Women Artists of the West's 48th annual juried art exhibition, featuring over 200 original art works, created by women in all mediums, subjects...

Cost: Free 2018-09-21,22,23

Where:
Price Tower Art Gallery
510 S. Dewey Ave.
Bartlesville, OK  74003
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Sponsor: Price Tower Arts Center
Telephone: 918.336.4949
Contact Name: Angelina Bourgou
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Escape the ordinary, and learn about OKC from a different point of view. Relax in the climate controlled cabin on one of our 65’ cruisers, or enjoy the breeze on the viewing deck and listen...

Cost: $15 for Seniors and kids under 12, $20 Adults

Where:
Regatta Landing
701 S. Lincoln Blvd.
OKC, OK  73109
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Telephone: 405.702.7755
Contact Name: Business Office
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A fabulous art auction to raise money to help support Oklahoma A+ Schools at UCO.

Cost: $100

Where:
CHK|Central Boathouse
732 Riversport Dr.
Oklahoma City, OK  73129
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Sponsor: Oklahoma A+ Schools at UCO
Telephone: 405.974.3791
Contact Name: Heather Bryant
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The evening Cocktail Cruise offers stunning views of the downtown skyline, the Boathouse District and Finish Line Tower, the Wheeler Ferris wheel and quite possibly an amazing Oklahoma sunset. Come...

Cost: $15 for Seniors and kids under 12, $20 Adults

Where:
Regatta Landing
701 S. Lincoln Blvd.
OKC, OK  73109
View map »


Telephone: 405.702.7755
Contact Name: Business Office
Website »

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Join supporters in communities across the nation for the St. Jude Walk/Run to End Childhood Cancer during Childhood Cancer Awareness Month. This family-friendly event raises funds to support the...

Cost: $10 for adults or children six and older

Where:
Stars and Stripes Park
3701 S. Lake Hefner Drive
Oklahoma City , OK  73116
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Telephone: 405.403.7762
Contact Name: Emily Drover
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Let’s end childhood cancer. Together! This September, supporters across the country will unite to participate in the St. Jude Walk/Run to End Childhood Cancer, an exciting, family-friendly...

Cost: $10 for Registration

Where:
Stars and Stripes Park
3701 S Lake Hefner Dr
Oklahoma City, OK  73116
View map »


Sponsor: ALSAC St. Jude Oklahoma City
Telephone: 405.403.7762
Contact Name: Emily Drover
Website »

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Price Tower Art Gallery in Bartlesville will host Women Artists of the West's 48th annual juried art exhibition, featuring over 200 original art works, created by women in all mediums, subjects...

Cost: Free 2018-09-21,22,23

Where:
Price Tower Art Gallery
510 S. Dewey Ave.
Bartlesville, OK  74003
View map »


Sponsor: Price Tower Arts Center
Telephone: 918.336.4949
Contact Name: Angelina Bourgou
Website »

More information

Escape the ordinary, and learn about OKC from a different point of view. Relax in the climate controlled cabin on one of our 65’ cruisers, or enjoy the breeze on the viewing deck and listen...

Cost: $15 for Seniors and kids under 12, $20 Adults

Where:
Regatta Landing
701 S. Lincoln Blvd.
OKC, OK  73109
View map »


Telephone: 405.702.7755
Contact Name: Business Office
Website »

More information

The evening Cocktail Cruise offers stunning views of the downtown skyline, the Boathouse District and Finish Line Tower, the Wheeler Ferris wheel and quite possibly an amazing Oklahoma sunset. Come...

Cost: $15 for Seniors and kids under 12, $20 Adults

Where:
Regatta Landing
701 S. Lincoln Blvd.
OKC, OK  73109
View map »


Telephone: 405.702.7755
Contact Name: Business Office
Website »

More information

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