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The Drake’s Waves of Flavor

The Good Egg Group finds new flagship in seafood haven The Drake



 


Oklahoma City is about a thousand miles from the Atlantic Ocean, give or take. Between
here and the Pacific lie more than 1,100 miles, and it’s 450 to the Gulf. That landlocked status means the opening of a new seafood restaurant here is more of an occasion than it might be in Maine or Florida or San Francisco. On the other hand, the advent of a restaurant like The Drake would be cause for celebration anywhere – the newest venture from A Good Egg
Dining Group is a must-voyage.

The full name of the restaurant (by the way, it’s named for Sir Francis, not the luxury hotel) is “The Drake Seafood • Oysterette,” which should give diners a pretty clear indication about its focus – while you could make a full meal here out of solely land-based tastes, it represents an outstanding opportunity to go exploring for unusual-to-OKC flavors from the ocean.

But don’t dive into the sea of possibilities right away; first you really need to try the appetizer called Lona Faye’s Four “H” Club. I was in 4H as a high-schooler, but I would definitely have enjoyed it more if, rather than “head, hands, heart, health,” the name had referred to this platter of hush puppies, ham, honey butter and hot sauce. Whatever proportions you combine them in, the flavors overlap extremely well, and there’s something decadent, as well as delicious, about smearing butter onto a thin slice of ham wrapped around a crisp, hot, crunchy ball of fried tastiness.

Now, let’s talk seafood. Even if you’re a neophyte (cough), it’s worth investigating the oysters; not only are the options plentiful, the presentation is impeccable via an ice-filled tray and side flourishes including freshly grated horseradish, grilled lemon and a choice of accompanying sauces (we preferred the bright citrus flavor of the yuzu-jalapeno mignonette to the more astringent punch of the rosé, but your mileage may vary).

And as for the main dishes, well, there was lively debate over which came out the best among the lusciously rich lobster roll – it comes with drawn butter, but you’ll never need it, though the drizzle of tarragon mayo is appreciated – the seared hiramasa filet that was exquisitely cooked and served in a pool of mildly tangy orange sauce, or the grilled scallops. I felt that the presence of the crumbles of crispy chorizo on the latter pushed them over the top, but our party never did reach consensus, so I can only encourage you to experiment.

Meals are best taken in groups anyway, the better to allow for sharing among multiple dishes and to take advantage of the Drake’s family-style presentation. That means dishes come to the table as they’re ready rather than all at once, which doesn’t shake out to more than a couple of minutes difference, but more importantly, sides are served in multi-person platters. So pick something everyone can get behind, such as the popcorn grits or black mac – it’s tinted with squid ink for visual interest, but it’s delicious in its own right and sneakily spicy with a slow-building, lingering heat.

Dessert is something of a thorny issue: the menu is packed so full of tempting things to try that diners are likely to be equally sated once the entrée plates are cleared. But if you can manage to preserve a bit of room, you’ll be richly rewarded in the form of a sweet treat like the Drake Creamsicle – a glass of cookie crumble, orange sherbet, vanilla ice cream and tangy orange curd swirled together – or the heavenly zest-beflecked lemon cloud pie with its crust of Biscoff cookies.

In sum, The Drake is a delight. Even taking into account the high expectations metro diners should have considering the success of the other Good Egg restaurants, this newest venture clears the bar with style. More than merely the novel catch of the day, it’s an eminently worthy addition to the metro’s dining scene. 

 


 

The Drake

► Quick tips

• Advance to the rear. The Drake directly abuts the ceaseless bustle of NW 23rd, so bear in mind there’s a good-sized parking lot to the north of The Rise, as well as streetside slots along Walker.

• Trust the experts. Seafood is a broad category, and as Oklahomans, we might not have an encyclopedic knowledge of the differing flavor profiles among Malpeque, Wellfleet and Kunamoto oysters. But don’t worry – the waiters know their stuff, and can walk you through whatever questions you might have after perusing the menu. Just say the word.

 

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Tower Theatre
425 NW 23rd St
Oklahoma City, OK  73103
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Telephone: 405.475.4185
Contact Name: Janelle Archer
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This year will mark the eighth time the John F. Kennedy Awards have been celebrated, honoring individuals making a significant contribution to Oklahoma, its communities and its people, while paying...

Cost: $300

Where:
Skirvin Hilton Hotel
1 Park Ave.
Oklahoma City, OK  73102
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Sponsor: Santa Fe Family Life Center
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More than 20 speakers in a one-track session designed for the digital marketing professional, marketer, business owner or anyone interested in branding, PR, advertising, social media, SEO, search,...

Cost: $250

Where:
Tower Theatre
425 NW 23rd St
Oklahoma City, OK  73103
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Sponsor: BigWing
Telephone: 405.475.4185
Contact Name: Janelle Archer
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Price Tower Art Gallery in Bartlesville will host Women Artists of the West's 48th annual juried art exhibition, featuring over 200 original art works, created by women in all mediums, subjects...

Cost: Free 2018-09-21,22,23

Where:
Price Tower Art Gallery
510 S. Dewey Ave.
Bartlesville, OK  74003
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Sponsor: Price Tower Arts Center
Telephone: 918.336.4949
Contact Name: Angelina Bourgou
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Escape the ordinary, and learn about OKC from a different point of view. Relax in the climate controlled cabin on one of our 65’ cruisers, or enjoy the breeze on the viewing deck and listen...

Cost: $15 for Seniors and kids under 12, $20 Adults

Where:
Regatta Landing
701 S. Lincoln Blvd.
OKC, OK  73109
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Telephone: 405.702.7755
Contact Name: Business Office
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A fabulous art auction to raise money to help support Oklahoma A+ Schools at UCO.

Cost: $100

Where:
CHK|Central Boathouse
732 Riversport Dr.
Oklahoma City, OK  73129
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Sponsor: Oklahoma A+ Schools at UCO
Telephone: 405.974.3791
Contact Name: Heather Bryant
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The evening Cocktail Cruise offers stunning views of the downtown skyline, the Boathouse District and Finish Line Tower, the Wheeler Ferris wheel and quite possibly an amazing Oklahoma sunset. Come...

Cost: $15 for Seniors and kids under 12, $20 Adults

Where:
Regatta Landing
701 S. Lincoln Blvd.
OKC, OK  73109
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Telephone: 405.702.7755
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Join supporters in communities across the nation for the St. Jude Walk/Run to End Childhood Cancer during Childhood Cancer Awareness Month. This family-friendly event raises funds to support the...

Cost: $10 for adults or children six and older

Where:
Stars and Stripes Park
3701 S. Lake Hefner Drive
Oklahoma City , OK  73116
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Telephone: 405.403.7762
Contact Name: Emily Drover
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Let’s end childhood cancer. Together! This September, supporters across the country will unite to participate in the St. Jude Walk/Run to End Childhood Cancer, an exciting, family-friendly...

Cost: $10 for Registration

Where:
Stars and Stripes Park
3701 S Lake Hefner Dr
Oklahoma City, OK  73116
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Sponsor: ALSAC St. Jude Oklahoma City
Telephone: 405.403.7762
Contact Name: Emily Drover
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Price Tower Art Gallery in Bartlesville will host Women Artists of the West's 48th annual juried art exhibition, featuring over 200 original art works, created by women in all mediums, subjects...

Cost: Free 2018-09-21,22,23

Where:
Price Tower Art Gallery
510 S. Dewey Ave.
Bartlesville, OK  74003
View map »


Sponsor: Price Tower Arts Center
Telephone: 918.336.4949
Contact Name: Angelina Bourgou
Website »

More information

Escape the ordinary, and learn about OKC from a different point of view. Relax in the climate controlled cabin on one of our 65’ cruisers, or enjoy the breeze on the viewing deck and listen...

Cost: $15 for Seniors and kids under 12, $20 Adults

Where:
Regatta Landing
701 S. Lincoln Blvd.
OKC, OK  73109
View map »


Telephone: 405.702.7755
Contact Name: Business Office
Website »

More information

The evening Cocktail Cruise offers stunning views of the downtown skyline, the Boathouse District and Finish Line Tower, the Wheeler Ferris wheel and quite possibly an amazing Oklahoma sunset. Come...

Cost: $15 for Seniors and kids under 12, $20 Adults

Where:
Regatta Landing
701 S. Lincoln Blvd.
OKC, OK  73109
View map »


Telephone: 405.702.7755
Contact Name: Business Office
Website »

More information

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