Edit ModuleShow Tags
Edit ModuleShow Tags

The Mouthwatering Mary Eddy’s Kitchen

Assemble your taste buds and head for 21c



 



When Jason Campbell, executive chef of Mary Eddy’s Kitchen inside the 21c Museum Hotel on Film Row, gets started talking about his menu, two of his most frequently used verbs are “play” – in the senses of both experimentation and interaction – and “balance.” He’s clearly a culinary artist and experimenter, as well as an industry veteran, which makes him an ideal fit for this new landmark: a boutique hotel that incorporates a free, always-open contemporary art gallery into a space whose design is heavily influenced by its former industrial life as the Fred Jones Ford assembly plant.
 

The restaurant (named for Jones’ wife) is a big, open, high-ceilinged area that adds ample comfort – including, as we long-legged types will quickly discover, padding underneath some tables – to an aesthetic inspired by its manufacturing past. The massive concrete pillars, for example, aren’t ponderous afterthoughts, they’re deliberately echoed in the octagonal lighting fixtures.

Watching Campbell and his team of chefs work in concert is rather mesmerizing; a perch at the broad wooden bar overlooking the kitchen would by no means be a bad thing, even if it means you won’t be able to cuddle up to one of the passel of purple penguins (hotel mascots) who are known to drift from table to table during the evening. Wherever you’re sitting, you’re in for some treats.

A good start would be the Toolbox – a sort of meat and cheese appetizer that doubles as a preliminary showcase for the kitchen’s expertise. Charcuterie is a particular point of pride for Campbell, and almost everything in the dish is made in-house, including the pickles and relish. The bread is from Prairie Thunder, but the secret ingredient to this toast is its spread of delectable drippings collected from the meats roasted in their massive rotisserie.

Listed as an appetizer, the ribs are plenty substantial – they’re from lambs raised on a farm near the Texas border, cooked sous vide for 36 hours and charred on the grill, then lacquered with a sauce of apricots and peppers.


The pizzas feature sauce made in-house from Campbell’s Italian father-in-law’s recipe, and dough that’s the result of lots of experimentation, leaving no bone at the top of each slice but a rewardingly crunchy bed. They deliberately don’t load it down with a surfeit of toppings to keep the diner’s focus partially on that foundation and maintain the pizza’s structural integrity. Campbell smiles that “we want it to stand out straight when you pick up a slice.” I recommend the pineapple porchetta’s deft interplay between raw and cooked, sweet and spicy, but the rest of our party preferred the Shrooms’ three kinds of fungi, so follow your heart.

You might balk at the $16 tag on the Thin Lizzy burger, but I urge you – as a friend – to try it. The 79-21 blend of pure ground chuck results in a magnificently juicy patty, with aged cheddar melted on top and a lemon aioli (never seen that before) to offset the somewhat peppery bite of the mustard greens. It’s amazing. I think I had a Dave-Bowman-at-the-end-of-2001 look on my face after the first bite.

Even the vegetable-centric side dishes shine: the melon salad’s ripe, sweet, gloriously vibrant hunks of cantaloupe and watermelon have been compressed with a kaffir lime simple syrup, and are served with chopped herbs including Thai basil, plus flecks of feta cheese that’s been marinated overnight in a house blend of oil and herbs to infuse it with additional nuances of flavor. This is an “extra step” kind of place. In another side, heirloom carrots of varied colors are roasted to tenderness and served on a harissa-spiced yogurt with red quinoa folded in. “I worked for a Moroccan chef,” explains Campbell. “He’s a big influence on the way I cook.”


For the meal’s crowning touch, consider the flourless – and therefore gluten-free, ahem – and quite rich chocolate torte, served with a small dollop of sweet cream ice cream and a candied, sugared strip of Fresno pepper (spices sneak in all over this menu). Or the light, tangy key lime semifreddo crowned with toasted almonds and microcilantro. And if neither of those appeal, bear in mind that the kitchen can also whip up a mug of grape cotton candy in a twinkling.

21c’s philosophy overall seems to be that it’s worth the effort to incorporate art into commerce – the establishment is clearly driven by a love and genuine appreciation for creativity. Fortunately for hungry patrons, the same is true of Mary Eddy’s, where artistry is evident in every dish. 

 

21c is a solid drinks destination, as well, whether at a small table for conversation or the gleaming wooden bar for ambiance. Food and beverage director James Tortoreti occasionally steps behind the bar to whip up a cocktail like this tequila-powered Rosy Finch, but they also specialize in bourbons, with an emphasis on “special.” There are some labels here that I, as a devotee, am sincerely excited about investigating.

 

► Mary Eddy’s Kitchen

 

Edit ModuleShow Tags

Archive »You Might Like

What's Up in the 405

Our top 6 picks for fun stuff to do in and around OKC

OK’s Great Salt Mystery

Mocked as a fairy tale after the Louisiana Purchase, the Great Salt Plains does exist, and continues to maintain its silent air of otherworldly mystery.

Oklahoma Film’s Future Frontier

Advances in technology are allowing Oklahoma filmmakers to let their imaginations run wild and present the results in thrilling virtual reality.

Add your comment:
Edit ModuleShow Tags
Edit ModuleShow Tags
Edit ModuleShow Tags

Calendar

January 2019

Through March 2019, Oklahoma Contemporary is partnering with Madison Square Park Conservancy to bring Erwin Redl’s installation Whiteout to Campbell Art Park. Whiteout is comprised of...

Cost: Free

Where:
Campbell Art Park
NW 11th and Broadway
Oklahoma City, OK  73103
View map »


Sponsor: Oklahoma Contemporary
Telephone: 405.951.0000
Contact Name: Lori Brooks
Website »

More information

Visitors to Heard Natural Science Museum & Wildlife Sanctuary will be able to let their imaginations run wild as they travel back in time with life-size animatronic dinosaurs along a half-mile...

Where:
Heard Natural Science Museum & Wildlife Sanctuary
1 Nature Place
McKinney, TX  75069
View map »


Sponsor: Heard Natural Science Museum & Wildlife Sanctuary
Telephone: 972.562.5566
Contact Name: Stephanie Jennings
Website »

More information

Men and women from across the American West played critical roles - both “over there” and on the home front - in helping the Allies win World War I. The National Cowboy & Western...

Cost: $12.50

Where:
National Cowboy & Western Heritage Museum
1700 Northeast 63rd Street
Oklahoma City, OK  73111
View map »


Telephone: 405.478.2250
Contact Name: Jenni
Website »

More information

Celebrate during MLK weekend with fun! From Saturday 1/19 through Monday 1/21, experience our Winter Fun Pass for just $19.95! This pass includes unlimited laser tag, bumper cars, frog hopper, kidz...

Cost: 19.95

Where:
Andy Alligator's Fun Park
3300 Market Place Dr
Norman, OK  73072
View map »


Sponsor: Andy Alligator's Fun Park
Telephone: 405.321.7275
Website »

More information

Show More...
Show Less...

Through March 2019, Oklahoma Contemporary is partnering with Madison Square Park Conservancy to bring Erwin Redl’s installation Whiteout to Campbell Art Park. Whiteout is comprised of...

Cost: Free

Where:
Campbell Art Park
NW 11th and Broadway
Oklahoma City, OK  73103
View map »


Sponsor: Oklahoma Contemporary
Telephone: 405.951.0000
Contact Name: Lori Brooks
Website »

More information

Men and women from across the American West played critical roles - both “over there” and on the home front - in helping the Allies win World War I. The National Cowboy & Western...

Cost: $12.50

Where:
National Cowboy & Western Heritage Museum
1700 Northeast 63rd Street
Oklahoma City, OK  73111
View map »


Telephone: 405.478.2250
Contact Name: Jenni
Website »

More information

Celebrate during MLK weekend with fun! From Saturday 1/19 through Monday 1/21, experience our Winter Fun Pass for just $19.95! This pass includes unlimited laser tag, bumper cars, frog hopper, kidz...

Cost: 19.95

Where:
Andy Alligator's Fun Park
3300 Market Place Dr
Norman, OK  73072
View map »


Sponsor: Andy Alligator's Fun Park
Telephone: 405.321.7275
Website »

More information

Show More...
Show Less...

Through March 2019, Oklahoma Contemporary is partnering with Madison Square Park Conservancy to bring Erwin Redl’s installation Whiteout to Campbell Art Park. Whiteout is comprised of...

Cost: Free

Where:
Campbell Art Park
NW 11th and Broadway
Oklahoma City, OK  73103
View map »


Sponsor: Oklahoma Contemporary
Telephone: 405.951.0000
Contact Name: Lori Brooks
Website »

More information

Visitors to Heard Natural Science Museum & Wildlife Sanctuary will be able to let their imaginations run wild as they travel back in time with life-size animatronic dinosaurs along a half-mile...

Where:
Heard Natural Science Museum & Wildlife Sanctuary
1 Nature Place
McKinney, TX  75069
View map »


Sponsor: Heard Natural Science Museum & Wildlife Sanctuary
Telephone: 972.562.5566
Contact Name: Stephanie Jennings
Website »

More information

Men and women from across the American West played critical roles - both “over there” and on the home front - in helping the Allies win World War I. The National Cowboy & Western...

Cost: $12.50

Where:
National Cowboy & Western Heritage Museum
1700 Northeast 63rd Street
Oklahoma City, OK  73111
View map »


Telephone: 405.478.2250
Contact Name: Jenni
Website »

More information

Show More...
Show Less...

Through March 2019, Oklahoma Contemporary is partnering with Madison Square Park Conservancy to bring Erwin Redl’s installation Whiteout to Campbell Art Park. Whiteout is comprised of...

Cost: Free

Where:
Campbell Art Park
NW 11th and Broadway
Oklahoma City, OK  73103
View map »


Sponsor: Oklahoma Contemporary
Telephone: 405.951.0000
Contact Name: Lori Brooks
Website »

More information

Visitors to Heard Natural Science Museum & Wildlife Sanctuary will be able to let their imaginations run wild as they travel back in time with life-size animatronic dinosaurs along a half-mile...

Where:
Heard Natural Science Museum & Wildlife Sanctuary
1 Nature Place
McKinney, TX  75069
View map »


Sponsor: Heard Natural Science Museum & Wildlife Sanctuary
Telephone: 972.562.5566
Contact Name: Stephanie Jennings
Website »

More information

Men and women from across the American West played critical roles - both “over there” and on the home front - in helping the Allies win World War I. The National Cowboy & Western...

Cost: $12.50

Where:
National Cowboy & Western Heritage Museum
1700 Northeast 63rd Street
Oklahoma City, OK  73111
View map »


Telephone: 405.478.2250
Contact Name: Jenni
Website »

More information

Show More...
Show Less...

Through March 2019, Oklahoma Contemporary is partnering with Madison Square Park Conservancy to bring Erwin Redl’s installation Whiteout to Campbell Art Park. Whiteout is comprised of...

Cost: Free

Where:
Campbell Art Park
NW 11th and Broadway
Oklahoma City, OK  73103
View map »


Sponsor: Oklahoma Contemporary
Telephone: 405.951.0000
Contact Name: Lori Brooks
Website »

More information

Visitors to Heard Natural Science Museum & Wildlife Sanctuary will be able to let their imaginations run wild as they travel back in time with life-size animatronic dinosaurs along a half-mile...

Where:
Heard Natural Science Museum & Wildlife Sanctuary
1 Nature Place
McKinney, TX  75069
View map »


Sponsor: Heard Natural Science Museum & Wildlife Sanctuary
Telephone: 972.562.5566
Contact Name: Stephanie Jennings
Website »

More information

Men and women from across the American West played critical roles - both “over there” and on the home front - in helping the Allies win World War I. The National Cowboy & Western...

Cost: $12.50

Where:
National Cowboy & Western Heritage Museum
1700 Northeast 63rd Street
Oklahoma City, OK  73111
View map »


Telephone: 405.478.2250
Contact Name: Jenni
Website »

More information

Show More...
Show Less...

Through March 2019, Oklahoma Contemporary is partnering with Madison Square Park Conservancy to bring Erwin Redl’s installation Whiteout to Campbell Art Park. Whiteout is comprised of...

Cost: Free

Where:
Campbell Art Park
NW 11th and Broadway
Oklahoma City, OK  73103
View map »


Sponsor: Oklahoma Contemporary
Telephone: 405.951.0000
Contact Name: Lori Brooks
Website »

More information

Visitors to Heard Natural Science Museum & Wildlife Sanctuary will be able to let their imaginations run wild as they travel back in time with life-size animatronic dinosaurs along a half-mile...

Where:
Heard Natural Science Museum & Wildlife Sanctuary
1 Nature Place
McKinney, TX  75069
View map »


Sponsor: Heard Natural Science Museum & Wildlife Sanctuary
Telephone: 972.562.5566
Contact Name: Stephanie Jennings
Website »

More information

Men and women from across the American West played critical roles - both “over there” and on the home front - in helping the Allies win World War I. The National Cowboy & Western...

Cost: $12.50

Where:
National Cowboy & Western Heritage Museum
1700 Northeast 63rd Street
Oklahoma City, OK  73111
View map »


Telephone: 405.478.2250
Contact Name: Jenni
Website »

More information

Presented By Painted Sky Opera By Leonard Bernstein Sam and Dinah may appear to be the picture of 1950s suburban marital bliss in this jazz-influenced opera by the composer of West Side...

Where:
Civic Center Music Hall - City Space
201 N Walker
Oklahoma City, OK  73102
View map »


Sponsor: Painted Sky Opera
Website »

More information

Show More...
Show Less...

Through March 2019, Oklahoma Contemporary is partnering with Madison Square Park Conservancy to bring Erwin Redl’s installation Whiteout to Campbell Art Park. Whiteout is comprised of...

Cost: Free

Where:
Campbell Art Park
NW 11th and Broadway
Oklahoma City, OK  73103
View map »


Sponsor: Oklahoma Contemporary
Telephone: 405.951.0000
Contact Name: Lori Brooks
Website »

More information

Visitors to Heard Natural Science Museum & Wildlife Sanctuary will be able to let their imaginations run wild as they travel back in time with life-size animatronic dinosaurs along a half-mile...

Where:
Heard Natural Science Museum & Wildlife Sanctuary
1 Nature Place
McKinney, TX  75069
View map »


Sponsor: Heard Natural Science Museum & Wildlife Sanctuary
Telephone: 972.562.5566
Contact Name: Stephanie Jennings
Website »

More information

Men and women from across the American West played critical roles - both “over there” and on the home front - in helping the Allies win World War I. The National Cowboy & Western...

Cost: $12.50

Where:
National Cowboy & Western Heritage Museum
1700 Northeast 63rd Street
Oklahoma City, OK  73111
View map »


Telephone: 405.478.2250
Contact Name: Jenni
Website »

More information

America’s largest interactive comedy murder mystery dinner show is now playing at the Skirvin Hilton Hotel. At The Dinner Detective, you’ll tackle a challenging crime while you...

Cost: $59.95

Where:
The Skirvin Hilton
1 Park Ave
Oklahoma City, OK  73102
View map »


Sponsor: The Dinner Detective
Telephone: 866.496.0535
Website »

More information

The 8th annual “A Perfect Finish” will feature a night of wine & beer tasting, an auction, food and fun benefiting the OKC RIVERSPORT Junior Crew.  The proceeds from this...

Cost: $75

Where:
McClendon Whitewater Center
800 Riversport Drive
Oklahoma City, OK  73129
View map »


Sponsor: RIVERSPORT OKC
Telephone: 405.552.4040
Contact Name: Luke Reynolds
Website »

More information

Presented By OKC Philharmonic Alexander Mickelthwate, conductor Yolanda Kondonassis, harp Bernstein - On the Town: Three Dance Episodes Brian Eno - An Ending (Ascent) Higdon - Concerto for...

Where:
Civic Center Music Hall-Thelma Gaylord Theater
201 N Walker
Oklahoma City, OK  73102
View map »


Sponsor: OKC Phil
Telephone: 405.842.5387
Website »

More information

Presented By Painted Sky Opera By Leonard Bernstein Sam and Dinah may appear to be the picture of 1950s suburban marital bliss in this jazz-influenced opera by the composer of West Side...

Where:
Civic Center Music Hall - City Space
201 N Walker
Oklahoma City, OK  73102
View map »


Sponsor: Painted Sky Opera
Website »

More information

Show More...
Show Less...
Edit ModuleShow Tags
Edit Module Edit ModuleShow Tags