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Octopus Pizzazz

Embracing a tricky taste treat



 



When a chef begins advice with “be prepared to ruin a lot of it before you’re good at it,” you know you’re up against a different animal, so to speak. In this case, the subject is octopus, and the chef offering the advice is Jonathan Krell, executive chef at Patrono, 305 N Walker.
 

“Cooking with octopus is like baking, in that the dish lets you know right away you didn’t do it right,” Krell says. “The best advice I can give is to try it dining out so you know what it’s supposed to taste like first … if you insist on making it at home.”

The caveat is not chef-ly arrogance, though: Octopus is famous for being one of the most difficult ingredients to work with. Gordon Ramsay once used profanity on a televised cooking show (which isn’t a vanishingly rare thing) when a contestant chose to work with grilled octopus.

Octopus has long been a staple of east Asian and Mediterranean cooking, but the cephalopod doesn’t usually find its way onto OKC menus … with some notable exceptions. Tokyo Japanese Restaurant, 7516 N Western, serves it in several of its rolls, and in Takoyaki – a traditional dish that uses minced, sliced or ground octopus in dumplings – and Takosu, a salad with sliced octopus. The dishes are exceptional, like everything else Tokyo does, and if you are looking for a solid introduction, that is a great place to begin.

Jason Campbell, executive chef at Mary Eddy’s in 21c Museum Hotel, 900 W Main, loves working with octopus, too.

“It’s the kind of dish I like to eat when I’m dining out, but I rarely do unless I know who prepared it,” Campbell says. “It’s a trust thing.”

Campbell, who has his high quality Spanish octopus flown in, said he was nervous about putting it on Mary Eddy’s menu, but guests have responded well.

“We are on the third set of octopus, and it’s one of my favorite things on the menu,” he says.

The challenge of octopus is not really the flavor. Most diners, when trying octopus for the first time, find the taste pleasant – assuming it’s prepared properly. It’s a little bit briny, a little sweet and not at all “fishy,” which is a word Campbell never wants servers using to describe seafood.

“It’s really its own thing,” Campbell says, “and it’s incredibly versatile. The difficulty of octopus is the texture and the skin.”


Octopus needs to be boiled or braised before it can be used in a dish. Krell said he has boiled a large-ish octopus two hours and 45 minutes. Most home cooks don’t have that kind of time, and even if they do, the boiling is only step one.

“The skin is where it can really go bad,” Campbell says. “If you peel the skin, the octopus can dry out quickly, but if you don’t get the skin crispy, you’re left with something that is really … gelatinous.”

He paused before using the word, but it’s totally accurate. The two most common complaints about octopus are “slimy” skin and chewy texture. If it is overcooked, it can make overcooked calamari seem tender by comparison. To crisp the skin, Campbell flash fries the tentacles after braising and rolling them in very light batter. Krell opts for a hot grill. Either method requires high heat, to dry the skin quickly without drying the meat.

If the preparation is done properly, the octopus will be crispy outside and tender but al dente chewy within. From that point on, it can be used in a variety of dishes, but both chefs typically prefer it as an appetizer.

“I’ve seen it used many ways,” Campbell says, “even as a main course with pasta, but I like to have a few bites and then move onto something else.”

The Mary Eddy’s preparation involved citrus, garlic, cilantro, onions, charred shishito peppers and housemade sambal, a hot sauce most often associated with Indonesia, Malaysia and other southeast Asian nations. Campbell changes his menu constantly based on availability, so preparation likely will have changed when this issue arrives.

Krell will change his preparation, as well. His first octopus appetizer at Patrono featured crispy potatoes, pickled onions, garlic-lemon aioli and fresh radishes.

From a chef’s perspective, the beauty of octopus is that it can be used with an almost unlimited number of dishes in any season – or as Campbell puts it, “There are 1,001 ways to prepare it.”

Grand House, 2701 N Classen Blvd., uses thinly sliced cephalopod in its octopus salad, and it’s also available as a sashimi option. You can find it frozen in a few specialty grocers, but Krell warned against it. “It’ll most likely be terribly chewy,” he says. Always heed the caveats of good chefs – but when you find a source you like, get your tentacles on it, because octopus can be a true treat.

 

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August 2019

ARTSPACE at Untitled is excited to debut the digital artworks produced from the original photography of Lawrence Leif Hultberg. A skilled American photographer and abstract painter born in 1953,...

Cost: Free

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415 Couch Drive
Oklahoma City, OK  73102
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Telephone: 405.236.3100
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Cost: $4-$6

Where:
Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
1000 Chisholm Trail Parkway
www.onthechisholmtrail.com
Duncan, OK  73533
View map »


Sponsor: Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
Telephone: 580.252.6692
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National Cowboy Western Heritage Museum
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ARTSPACE at Untitled is excited to debut the digital artworks produced from the original photography of Lawrence Leif Hultberg. A skilled American photographer and abstract painter born in 1953,...

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Artspace at Untitled
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Sponsor: Artspace at Untitled
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Contact Name: Laura Warriner
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ARTSPACE at Untitled is excited to debut the digital artworks produced from the original photography of Lawrence Leif Hultberg. A skilled American photographer and abstract painter born in 1953,...

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1 NE 3rd st
Oklahoma City, OK  73104
View map »


Sponsor: Artspace at Untitled
Telephone: 405-815-9995
Contact Name: Laura Warriner
Website »

More information

Urban Abstracts is a series of digital artworks by Lawrence Hultberg produced from his original photography. Patterns, textures and geometric shapes are found everywhere, especially within an urban...

Cost: Free

Where:
ARTSPACE at Untitled
1 NE 3rd st
Oklahoma City, OK  73104
View map »


Telephone: 405-815-9995
Website »

More information

A Texas State of Mind, featuring the art of Larry G. Lemons of Nocona, TX, is coming to the Chisholm Trail Heritage Center in Duncan, OK.  A meet the artist reception will be 3:30 - 6:30...

Cost: $4-$6

Where:
Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
1000 Chisholm Trail Parkway
www.onthechisholmtrail.com
Duncan, OK  73533
View map »


Sponsor: Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
Telephone: 580.252.6692
Contact Name: Toni Hopper
Website »

More information

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Sponsor: National Kidney Foundation
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ARTSPACE at Untitled is excited to debut the digital artworks produced from the original photography of Lawrence Leif Hultberg. A skilled American photographer and abstract painter born in 1953,...

Cost: Free

Where:
Artspace at Untitled
1 NE 3rd st
Oklahoma City, OK  73104
View map »


Sponsor: Artspace at Untitled
Telephone: 405-815-9995
Contact Name: Laura Warriner
Website »

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August 6, 8, 13, 15, 20, 22, 27, 29 Become a Museum Docent! 8:30 a.m. – 4:30 p.m. Classroom A Docents lead adult and children tours, which are key in reaching the Museum's...

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National Cowboy Western Heritage Museum
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Sponsor: National Kidney Foundation
Telephone: 913.262.1551
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Urban Abstracts is a series of digital artworks by Lawrence Hultberg produced from his original photography. Patterns, textures and geometric shapes are found everywhere, especially within an urban...

Cost: Free

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ARTSPACE at Untitled
1 NE 3rd st
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View map »


Telephone: 405-815-9995
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Featuring more than 70 works by French and European masters such as Degas, Manet, Monet, Rousseau and Van Gogh, this exhibition celebrates Mr. and Mrs. Paul Mellon’s extraordinary gift of...

Cost: $15

Where:
Oklahoma City Museum of Art
415 Couch Drive
Oklahoma City, OK  73102
View map »


Telephone: 405.236.3100
Website »

More information

A Texas State of Mind, featuring the art of Larry G. Lemons of Nocona, TX, is coming to the Chisholm Trail Heritage Center in Duncan, OK.  A meet the artist reception will be 3:30 - 6:30...

Cost: $4-$6

Where:
Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
1000 Chisholm Trail Parkway
www.onthechisholmtrail.com
Duncan, OK  73533
View map »


Sponsor: Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
Telephone: 580.252.6692
Contact Name: Toni Hopper
Website »

More information

ARTSPACE at Untitled is excited to debut the digital artworks produced from the original photography of Lawrence Leif Hultberg. A skilled American photographer and abstract painter born in 1953,...

Cost: Free

Where:
Artspace at Untitled
1 NE 3rd st
Oklahoma City, OK  73104
View map »


Sponsor: Artspace at Untitled
Telephone: 405-815-9995
Contact Name: Laura Warriner
Website »

More information

From Albert Bierstadt’s glowing landscape Emigrants Crossing the Plains to pieces by Frederic Remington and Charles Russell, see some of the finest Western art in the country. View...

Cost: Free with Museum Admission

Where:
National Cowboy Western Heritage Museum
1700 NE 63rd st
Oklahoma City, OK  73111
View map »

More information

ARTSPACE at Untitled is excited to debut the digital artworks produced from the original photography of Lawrence Leif Hultberg. A skilled American photographer and abstract painter born in 1953,...

Cost: Free

Where:
Artspace at Untitled
1 NE 3rd st
Oklahoma City, OK  73104
View map »


Sponsor: Artspace at Untitled
Telephone: 405-815-9995
Contact Name: Laura Warriner
Website »

More information

Show More...
Show Less...

ARTSPACE at Untitled is excited to debut the digital artworks produced from the original photography of Lawrence Leif Hultberg. A skilled American photographer and abstract painter born in 1953,...

Cost: Free

Where:
Artspace at Untitled
1 NE 3rd st
Oklahoma City, OK  73104
View map »


Sponsor: Artspace at Untitled
Telephone: 405-815-9995
Contact Name: Laura Warriner
Website »

More information

Urban Abstracts is a series of digital artworks by Lawrence Hultberg produced from his original photography. Patterns, textures and geometric shapes are found everywhere, especially within an urban...

Cost: Free

Where:
ARTSPACE at Untitled
1 NE 3rd st
Oklahoma City, OK  73104
View map »


Telephone: 405-815-9995
Website »

More information

Featuring more than 70 works by French and European masters such as Degas, Manet, Monet, Rousseau and Van Gogh, this exhibition celebrates Mr. and Mrs. Paul Mellon’s extraordinary gift of...

Cost: $15

Where:
Oklahoma City Museum of Art
415 Couch Drive
Oklahoma City, OK  73102
View map »


Telephone: 405.236.3100
Website »

More information

A Texas State of Mind, featuring the art of Larry G. Lemons of Nocona, TX, is coming to the Chisholm Trail Heritage Center in Duncan, OK.  A meet the artist reception will be 3:30 - 6:30...

Cost: $4-$6

Where:
Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
1000 Chisholm Trail Parkway
www.onthechisholmtrail.com
Duncan, OK  73533
View map »


Sponsor: Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
Telephone: 580.252.6692
Contact Name: Toni Hopper
Website »

More information

From Albert Bierstadt’s glowing landscape Emigrants Crossing the Plains to pieces by Frederic Remington and Charles Russell, see some of the finest Western art in the country. View...

Cost: Free with Museum Admission

Where:
National Cowboy Western Heritage Museum
1700 NE 63rd st
Oklahoma City, OK  73111
View map »

More information

ARTSPACE at Untitled is excited to debut the digital artworks produced from the original photography of Lawrence Leif Hultberg. A skilled American photographer and abstract painter born in 1953,...

Cost: Free

Where:
Artspace at Untitled
1 NE 3rd st
Oklahoma City, OK  73104
View map »


Sponsor: Artspace at Untitled
Telephone: 405-815-9995
Contact Name: Laura Warriner
Website »

More information

Show More...
Show Less...

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Cost: free

Where:
National Cowboy Western Heritage Museum
1700 NE 63rd st
Oklahoma City, OK  73111
View map »

More information

ARTSPACE at Untitled is excited to debut the digital artworks produced from the original photography of Lawrence Leif Hultberg. A skilled American photographer and abstract painter born in 1953,...

Cost: Free

Where:
Artspace at Untitled
1 NE 3rd st
Oklahoma City, OK  73104
View map »


Sponsor: Artspace at Untitled
Telephone: 405-815-9995
Contact Name: Laura Warriner
Website »

More information

Urban Abstracts is a series of digital artworks by Lawrence Hultberg produced from his original photography. Patterns, textures and geometric shapes are found everywhere, especially within an urban...

Cost: Free

Where:
ARTSPACE at Untitled
1 NE 3rd st
Oklahoma City, OK  73104
View map »


Telephone: 405-815-9995
Website »

More information

Featuring more than 70 works by French and European masters such as Degas, Manet, Monet, Rousseau and Van Gogh, this exhibition celebrates Mr. and Mrs. Paul Mellon’s extraordinary gift of...

Cost: $15

Where:
Oklahoma City Museum of Art
415 Couch Drive
Oklahoma City, OK  73102
View map »


Telephone: 405.236.3100
Website »

More information

A Texas State of Mind, featuring the art of Larry G. Lemons of Nocona, TX, is coming to the Chisholm Trail Heritage Center in Duncan, OK.  A meet the artist reception will be 3:30 - 6:30...

Cost: $4-$6

Where:
Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
1000 Chisholm Trail Parkway
www.onthechisholmtrail.com
Duncan, OK  73533
View map »


Sponsor: Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
Telephone: 580.252.6692
Contact Name: Toni Hopper
Website »

More information

From Albert Bierstadt’s glowing landscape Emigrants Crossing the Plains to pieces by Frederic Remington and Charles Russell, see some of the finest Western art in the country. View...

Cost: Free with Museum Admission

Where:
National Cowboy Western Heritage Museum
1700 NE 63rd st
Oklahoma City, OK  73111
View map »

More information

ARTSPACE at Untitled is excited to debut the digital artworks produced from the original photography of Lawrence Leif Hultberg. A skilled American photographer and abstract painter born in 1953,...

Cost: Free

Where:
Artspace at Untitled
1 NE 3rd st
Oklahoma City, OK  73104
View map »


Sponsor: Artspace at Untitled
Telephone: 405-815-9995
Contact Name: Laura Warriner
Website »

More information

In partnership with the Oklahoma Film Society, ARTSPACE presents 40 Minutes or Less: Local Female Filmmakers. A selection of short films by female filmmakers from the great state of Oklahoma...

Cost: Free

Where:
Artspace at Untitled
1 NE 3rd st
Oklahoma City, OK  73104
View map »


Telephone: 405-815-9995
Website »

More information

Show More...
Show Less...

ARTSPACE at Untitled is excited to debut the digital artworks produced from the original photography of Lawrence Leif Hultberg. A skilled American photographer and abstract painter born in 1953,...

Cost: Free

Where:
Artspace at Untitled
1 NE 3rd st
Oklahoma City, OK  73104
View map »


Sponsor: Artspace at Untitled
Telephone: 405-815-9995
Contact Name: Laura Warriner
Website »

More information

Urban Abstracts is a series of digital artworks by Lawrence Hultberg produced from his original photography. Patterns, textures and geometric shapes are found everywhere, especially within an urban...

Cost: Free

Where:
ARTSPACE at Untitled
1 NE 3rd st
Oklahoma City, OK  73104
View map »


Telephone: 405-815-9995
Website »

More information

Featuring more than 70 works by French and European masters such as Degas, Manet, Monet, Rousseau and Van Gogh, this exhibition celebrates Mr. and Mrs. Paul Mellon’s extraordinary gift of...

Cost: $15

Where:
Oklahoma City Museum of Art
415 Couch Drive
Oklahoma City, OK  73102
View map »


Telephone: 405.236.3100
Website »

More information

A Texas State of Mind, featuring the art of Larry G. Lemons of Nocona, TX, is coming to the Chisholm Trail Heritage Center in Duncan, OK.  A meet the artist reception will be 3:30 - 6:30...

Cost: $4-$6

Where:
Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
1000 Chisholm Trail Parkway
www.onthechisholmtrail.com
Duncan, OK  73533
View map »


Sponsor: Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
Telephone: 580.252.6692
Contact Name: Toni Hopper
Website »

More information

From Albert Bierstadt’s glowing landscape Emigrants Crossing the Plains to pieces by Frederic Remington and Charles Russell, see some of the finest Western art in the country. View...

Cost: Free with Museum Admission

Where:
National Cowboy Western Heritage Museum
1700 NE 63rd st
Oklahoma City, OK  73111
View map »

More information

ARTSPACE at Untitled is excited to debut the digital artworks produced from the original photography of Lawrence Leif Hultberg. A skilled American photographer and abstract painter born in 1953,...

Cost: Free

Where:
Artspace at Untitled
1 NE 3rd st
Oklahoma City, OK  73104
View map »


Sponsor: Artspace at Untitled
Telephone: 405-815-9995
Contact Name: Laura Warriner
Website »

More information

The evening Cocktail Cruise offers stunning views of the downtown skyline, the Boathouse District & Finish Line Tower, the Wheeler Ferris wheel and, quite possibly, an amazing...

Cost: Adult: $20 Seniors and Children: $15

Where:
Regatta Park Landing
701 S. Lincoln Blvd
Oklahoma City, OK  73119
View map »


Sponsor: Oklahoma River Cruises
Telephone: 405-702-7755
Contact Name: Che Loessberg
Website »

More information

The evening Cocktail Cruise offers stunning views of the downtown skyline, the Boathouse District & Finish Line Tower, the Wheeler Ferris Wheel, and quite possibly an amazing Oklahoma...

Cost: Adults $20; Seniors and Children $15

Where:
Regatta Park Landing
701 S. Lincoln Blvd
Oklahoma City, OK  73119
View map »


Sponsor: Oklahoma River Cruises
Telephone: 405-702-7755
Contact Name: Che Loessberg
Website »

More information

Show More...
Show Less...

Featuring more than 70 works by French and European masters such as Degas, Manet, Monet, Rousseau and Van Gogh, this exhibition celebrates Mr. and Mrs. Paul Mellon’s extraordinary gift of...

Cost: $15

Where:
Oklahoma City Museum of Art
415 Couch Drive
Oklahoma City, OK  73102
View map »


Telephone: 405.236.3100
Website »

More information

ARTSPACE at Untitled is excited to debut the digital artworks produced from the original photography of Lawrence Leif Hultberg. A skilled American photographer and abstract painter born in 1953,...

Cost: Free

Where:
Artspace at Untitled
1 NE 3rd st
Oklahoma City, OK  73104
View map »


Sponsor: Artspace at Untitled
Telephone: 405-815-9995
Contact Name: Laura Warriner
Website »

More information

Urban Abstracts is a series of digital artworks by Lawrence Hultberg produced from his original photography. Patterns, textures and geometric shapes are found everywhere, especially within an urban...

Cost: Free

Where:
ARTSPACE at Untitled
1 NE 3rd st
Oklahoma City, OK  73104
View map »


Telephone: 405-815-9995
Website »

More information

A Texas State of Mind, featuring the art of Larry G. Lemons of Nocona, TX, is coming to the Chisholm Trail Heritage Center in Duncan, OK.  A meet the artist reception will be 3:30 - 6:30...

Cost: $4-$6

Where:
Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
1000 Chisholm Trail Parkway
www.onthechisholmtrail.com
Duncan, OK  73533
View map »


Sponsor: Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
Telephone: 580.252.6692
Contact Name: Toni Hopper
Website »

More information

Spend your holiday weekend at Andy Alligator’s! From Saturday, August 31st through Monday, September 2nd, save $5 on a Dual Park Pass! This includes all day access to both the Water Park and...

Cost: $31.95

Where:
Andy Alligator's Fun Park & Water Park
3300 Market Place
Norman, OK  73072
View map »

More information

Art Moments 1:00 – 2:00 p.m. Enjoy a variety of 10-minute spotlight talks throughout the galleries to introduce different works in the Museum’s temporary exhibitions or permanent...

Cost: Free with Museum admisison

Where:
National Cowboy Western Heritage Museum
1700 NE 63rd st
Oklahoma City, OK  73111
View map »

More information

ARTSPACE at Untitled is excited to debut the digital artworks produced from the original photography of Lawrence Leif Hultberg. A skilled American photographer and abstract painter born in 1953,...

Cost: Free

Where:
Artspace at Untitled
1 NE 3rd st
Oklahoma City, OK  73104
View map »


Sponsor: Artspace at Untitled
Telephone: 405-815-9995
Contact Name: Laura Warriner
Website »

More information

Come pre-party with us on the patio this Saturday at the Sheraton Hotel. Enjoy our signature cocktail drinks and food bar menu. DJ Catherine Ouellette will be spinning your favorite tunes...

Cost: Free

Where:
Sheraton Oklahoma City Downtown Hotel
1 North Broadway Ave
Oklahoma City, OK  73102
View map »

More information

We're poppin' champagne on the patio this Saturday and raffling off a bottle of Perrier-Jouet valued at $300! Come pre-party with us and DJ Catherine Ouellette from 6pm-10pm -...

Cost: Free

Where:
Sheraton Oklahoma City Downtown Hotel
1, N Broadway Ave
Oklahoma City, OK  73102
View map »

More information

America’s largest interactive comedy murder mystery dinner show is now playing at the Skirvin Hilton Hotel. At The Dinner Detective, you’ll tackle a challenging crime while you...

Cost: $59.95

Where:
The Skirvin Hilton
1 Park Ave
Oklahoma City, OK  73102
View map »


Sponsor: The Dinner Detective
Telephone: 866.496.0535
Website »

More information

The evening Cocktail Cruise offers stunning views of the downtown skyline, the Boathouse District & Finish Line Tower, the Wheeler Ferris wheel and, quite possibly, an amazing...

Cost: Adult: $20 Seniors and Children: $15

Where:
Regatta Park Landing
701 S. Lincoln Blvd
Oklahoma City, OK  73119
View map »


Sponsor: Oklahoma River Cruises
Telephone: 405-702-7755
Contact Name: Che Loessberg
Website »

More information

The evening Cocktail Cruise offers stunning views of the downtown skyline, the Boathouse District & Finish Line Tower, the Wheeler Ferris Wheel, and quite possibly an amazing Oklahoma...

Cost: Adults $20; Seniors and Children $15

Where:
Regatta Park Landing
701 S. Lincoln Blvd
Oklahoma City, OK  73119
View map »


Sponsor: Oklahoma River Cruises
Telephone: 405-702-7755
Contact Name: Che Loessberg
Website »

More information

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