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Cattlemen’s Historical Trail

Revisiting an OKC legend



 



Given that one of our features for this issue looks at the newest set of dining establishments to hit the metro, we thought for our standard restaurant review we’d head in the other temporal direction and revisit a classic. And in OKC, they don’t come any more venerable than Cattlemen’s – founded in 1910. Seriously.
 

 

Like the Ship of Theseus, individual elements have been replaced now and again without disrupting the overall identity and atmospheric collection of leather chairs, dark red carpet, exposed brick and wood and decorative touches ranging from small vintage photos to the giant illuminated picture that takes up the south wall. The menu gets occasional minor updates, such as the recent addition of a creamy, breadcrumb-topped mac and cheese to the reliable sides of sautéed mushrooms or steamed broccoli, and during the photo shoot I overheard some of the waitstaff discussing brunch at Café Kacao, which seems like a good indication of a slightly more cosmopolitan city than a visitor would have found 80 years ago. But it remains identifiably Cattlemen’s, the spot where ranchers and farmers and John Wayne and George Bush and innumerable unrenowned folks have sat and eaten for a century and counting.

If you set out to create this restaurant today, it would almost certainly feel forced and fake, but it turns out a steady flow of months and years and decades results in a perceptible, inarguable authenticity. Cattlemen’s isn’t trying to be a Western-themed steakhouse, it just is as it is – and when (not if) you see a patron in a cowboy hat, it’s probably part of their daily attire.

This might sound counterintuitive, but unless your party is just immense or it’s a peak hour, I would argue that it’s actually a good thing they don’t take reservations. The waiting area upstairs is spacious and comfortable, with a couple of TVs spread around and a bar should you need to wet down any trail dust in your throat. They even have a house beer: the refreshing, hoppy Double Deuce. A little extra time to soak up the atmosphere is, in this case, a good thing.


 

If you don’t know what lamb fries are, I won’t ruin it for you, but since they’re a house specialty, we steeled ourselves and gave them a try … and were pleasantly surprised to discover they’re tasty and astonishingly tender. I might have wished for a dab more pepper in the breading, but as long as you don’t fixate on precisely where they came from, they’re genuinely good. Test these yourself, and enjoy.

The steaks are obviously the main event; cut from corn-fed beef and specially aged, they have beautiful cross-hatchings of grill marks and a flame-broiled savor, especially the bacon-wrapped filet (which is a thick, tender pleasure). The decision to hold the plating to just a splash of jus and let the meat speak for itself, rather than adding a pistachio crust or béarnaise, is a prime example of well-considered restraint.

Since Cattlemen’s is of the old school, all steaks come with a baked potato, massive yeast rolls and a small green salad (don’t let anything dissuade you from getting the house dressing). So plan ahead for a feast, and be forewarned that the cream pies and cobblers are immense, as well as delicious.

It’s a fairly particular kind of meal – I don’t imagine they go through very many orders of the salmon in a week – and to a greater degree than many places, the experience of eating here is about more than just the food on the plates. During this most recent visit, I reached across the table for a piece of toast to crumble into my salad as croutons, and suddenly had a powerful, clear memory of doing the same thing as an 8-year-old seated across the table from my grandfather, a lifelong horse and cattleman who rarely left the house without his own cowboy hat. He passed 20 years ago; I still have his watch in a box at home. And for that moment all the seconds of the last three decades had disappeared. You can’t order a memory like that off the menu.

And if you don’t already have a connection to this OKC institution to draw memories from, you still have time to go make one. Cattlemen’s isn’t going anywhere. 

 


 

►Cattlemen’s Steakhouse

Sunday-Thursday 6 a.m.-10 p.m.

Friday-Saturday 6 a.m.-midnight

Bear in Mind: While the restaurant’s rep tends to rely on its dinners, it also does an excellent breakfast, and can serve omelettes, pancakes and French toast all day. Yes, and also steak and eggs.

 

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Calendar

October 2019

Whether it’s a pair of deer in the woods of Oklahoma, or the delicate points of a snowflake in Wisconsin, Maud photographer Sarah Rodefeld is patient and steady as she aims her lens. ...

Cost: $4-$6

Where:
Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
1000 Chisholm Trail Parkway
Duncan, OK  73533
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Sponsor: Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
Telephone: 580.252.6692
Contact Name: Toni Hopper
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Cost: Free!

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Fred Jones Jr. Museum of Art
555 Elm Ave.
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Sponsor: Fred Jones Jr. Museum of Art
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Forms Through Language: an exhibition by San Francisco Artist Gyöngy Laky. On view September 12 – October 31. Free and open to the public. Join us for Laky's Artist Reception on...

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Telephone: 405-815-9995
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Cost: Free

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Myriad Gardens
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Sponsor: The Children's Hospital Volunteers
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Sponsor: Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
Telephone: 580.252.6692
Contact Name: Toni Hopper
Website »

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Cost: Free!

Where:
Fred Jones Jr. Museum of Art
555 Elm Ave.
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Sponsor: Fred Jones Jr. Museum of Art
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Cost: Free

Where:
Artspace at Untitled
1 NE 3rd st
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Telephone: 405-815-9995
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Cost: $175 for the full term

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The Paramount Room
701 W. Sheridan Ave
Oklahoma City, OK  73102
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Sponsor: The Space OKC
Telephone: 405-887-3327
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Cost: Free

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Sponsor: University of Science and Arts of Oklahoma
Telephone: 405-574-1312
Contact Name: Dr. Tonnia Anderson
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1 North Broadway Ave
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Cost: Free!

Where:
Fred Jones Jr. Museum of Art
555 Elm Ave.
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View map »


Sponsor: Fred Jones Jr. Museum of Art
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More information

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Cost: Free

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View map »


Telephone: 405-815-9995
Website »

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Cost: $4-$6

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View map »


Sponsor: Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
Telephone: 580.252.6692
Contact Name: Toni Hopper
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Cost: Free

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Sheraton Oklahoma City Downtown Hotel
1 North Broadway Ave
Oklahoma City, OK  73102
View map »

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Professional instruction in the art of improvisation. Though some experience with improvisation is beneficial, all skill levels are welcome, no prerequisite classes.  Though sketch comedy...

Cost: $175 for the full term

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The Paramount Room
701 W. Sheridan Ave
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Sponsor: The Space OKC
Telephone: 405-887-3327
Contact Name: AL Caveny
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Cost: Free to the public. Donations accepted.

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Telephone: 580.252.6692
Contact Name: Toni Hopper
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Cost: Free

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Artspace at Untitled
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View map »


Telephone: 405-815-9995
Website »

More information

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Cost: Free!

Where:
Fred Jones Jr. Museum of Art
555 Elm Ave.
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View map »


Sponsor: Fred Jones Jr. Museum of Art
Website »

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1 North Broadway Ave
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Cost: $175 for the full term

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The Paramount Room
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Telephone: 405-887-3327
Contact Name: AL Caveny
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Cost: Free

Where:
Artspace at Untitled
1 NE 3rd st
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Telephone: 405-815-9995
Website »

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Whether it’s a pair of deer in the woods of Oklahoma, or the delicate points of a snowflake in Wisconsin, Maud photographer Sarah Rodefeld is patient and steady as she aims her lens. ...

Cost: $4-$6

Where:
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Sponsor: Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
Telephone: 580.252.6692
Contact Name: Toni Hopper
Website »

More information

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Cost: Free!

Where:
Fred Jones Jr. Museum of Art
555 Elm Ave.
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Sponsor: Fred Jones Jr. Museum of Art
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"Size Queen: Harold Stevenson and the Politics of Looking" Lecture     October 24, 4 p.m. Mary Eddy Auditorium Free and open to the public Join us for a lecture by Dr....

Cost: Free!

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Fred Jones Jr. Museum of Art
555 Elm Ave.
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Sponsor: Fred Jones Jr. Museum of Art
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Cost: Free

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ARTSPACE at Untitled
1 NE 3rd St
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Sponsor: ARTSPACE at Untitled
Telephone: 405-815-9995
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Professional instruction in the art of improvisation. Though some experience with improvisation is beneficial, all skill levels are welcome, no prerequisite classes.  Though sketch comedy...

Cost: $175 for the full term

Where:
The Paramount Room
701 W. Sheridan Ave
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Telephone: 405-887-3327
Contact Name: AL Caveny
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Sheraton Oklahoma City Downtown Hotel
1 North Broadway Ave
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Cost: $12, 10, & 7

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705 W. University Ave.
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Sponsor: Oklahoma State University Symphony Orchestra
Telephone: 618-304-2817
Contact Name: Dr. Thomas Dickey, Director of Orchestral Studies
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On Oct. 24 at 7:30 p.m. in the Davis Hall Little Theatre, PUSH Physical Theatre will bring Bram Stoker’s 1897 horror novel DRACULA to life in an original, multi-media performance that...

Cost: $10-15

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Davis Hall Little Theatre
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Cost: Free

Where:
Artspace at Untitled
1 NE 3rd st
Oklahoma City, OK  73104
View map »


Telephone: 405-815-9995
Website »

More information

October 4-December 29, 2019 Misunderstood! features poems and artworks ranging from 1894 to 2017. As these works demonstrate, Native artists and writers have grappled with the same...

Cost: Free!

Where:
Fred Jones Jr. Museum of Art
555 Elm Ave.
Norman, OK  73019
View map »


Sponsor: Fred Jones Jr. Museum of Art
Website »

More information

Whether it’s a pair of deer in the woods of Oklahoma, or the delicate points of a snowflake in Wisconsin, Maud photographer Sarah Rodefeld is patient and steady as she aims her lens. ...

Cost: $4-$6

Where:
Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
1000 Chisholm Trail Parkway
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View map »


Sponsor: Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
Telephone: 580.252.6692
Contact Name: Toni Hopper
Website »

More information

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Cost: $8

Where:
Nerfed Indoor Battle Arena
1 East Main St.
Shawnee, OK  74801
View map »


Sponsor: Nerfed Indoor Battle Arena
Telephone: 405-585-1321
Contact Name: Beau & Misty Dorrough
Website »

More information

Professional instruction in the art of improvisation. Though some experience with improvisation is beneficial, all skill levels are welcome, no prerequisite classes.  Though sketch comedy...

Cost: $175 for the full term

Where:
The Paramount Room
701 W. Sheridan Ave
Oklahoma City, OK  73102
View map »


Sponsor: The Space OKC
Telephone: 405-887-3327
Contact Name: AL Caveny
Website »

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Come pre-party with us on the patio this Saturday at the Sheraton Hotel. Enjoy our signature cocktail drinks and food bar menu. DJ Catherine Ouellette will be spinning your favorite tunes...

Cost: Free

Where:
Sheraton Oklahoma City Downtown Hotel
1 North Broadway Ave
Oklahoma City, OK  73102
View map »

More information

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McKnight Center Performance Hall
419 S. Monroe
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More information

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Cost: Varying

Where:
McKnight Center Performance Hall
419 S. Monroe
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Cost: $35

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Exchange Ave. Landing
1503 Exchange Ave.
Oklahoma City, OK  73108
View map »


Sponsor: Oklahoma River Cruises
Telephone: 405-702-7755
Contact Name: Che Loessberg
Website »

More information

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Cost: Varies

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6000 Prosper Blvd
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View map »


Sponsor: OKC Broadway
Telephone: 405-594-8300
Website »

More information

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Cost: $30-$45

Where:
OCCC Visual and Performing Arts Center
7777 South May Avenue
Oklahoma City, OK  73159
View map »


Sponsor: INSURICA

More information

OU University Theatre and Helmerich School of Drama present the dramatic comedy The Wolves. Left quad. Right quad. Lunge. A girl's indoor soccer team warms up. From the safety of their...

Cost: 10-35

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Weitzenhoffer Theatre
563 Elm Ave.
Norman, OK  73019
View map »


Sponsor: OU University Theatre
Telephone: (405) 325-4101
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Website »

More information

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Whether it’s a pair of deer in the woods of Oklahoma, or the delicate points of a snowflake in Wisconsin, Maud photographer Sarah Rodefeld is patient and steady as she aims her lens. ...

Cost: $4-$6

Where:
Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
1000 Chisholm Trail Parkway
Duncan, OK  73533
View map »


Sponsor: Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
Telephone: 580.252.6692
Contact Name: Toni Hopper
Website »

More information

October 4-December 29, 2019 Misunderstood! features poems and artworks ranging from 1894 to 2017. As these works demonstrate, Native artists and writers have grappled with the same...

Cost: Free!

Where:
Fred Jones Jr. Museum of Art
555 Elm Ave.
Norman, OK  73019
View map »


Sponsor: Fred Jones Jr. Museum of Art
Website »

More information

Forms Through Language: an exhibition by San Francisco Artist Gyöngy Laky. On view September 12 – October 31. Free and open to the public. Join us for Laky's Artist Reception on...

Cost: Free

Where:
Artspace at Untitled
1 NE 3rd st
Oklahoma City, OK  73104
View map »


Telephone: 405-815-9995
Website »

More information

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Cost: Free

Where:
Sheraton Oklahoma City Downtown Hotel
1, N Broadway Ave
Oklahoma City, OK  73102
View map »

More information

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Cost: $8

Where:
Nerfed Indoor Battle Arena
1 East Main St.
Shawnee, OK  74801
View map »


Sponsor: Nerfed Indoor Battle Arena
Telephone: 405-585-1321
Contact Name: Beau & Misty Dorrough
Website »

More information

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Cost: $59.95

Where:
The Skirvin Hilton
1 Park Ave
Oklahoma City, OK  73102
View map »


Sponsor: The Dinner Detective
Telephone: 866.496.0535
Website »

More information

Professional instruction in the art of improvisation. Though some experience with improvisation is beneficial, all skill levels are welcome, no prerequisite classes.  Though sketch comedy...

Cost: $175 for the full term

Where:
The Paramount Room
701 W. Sheridan Ave
Oklahoma City, OK  73102
View map »


Sponsor: The Space OKC
Telephone: 405-887-3327
Contact Name: AL Caveny
Website »

More information

Come pre-party with us on the patio this Saturday at the Sheraton Hotel. Enjoy our signature cocktail drinks and food bar menu. DJ Catherine Ouellette will be spinning your favorite tunes...

Cost: Free

Where:
Sheraton Oklahoma City Downtown Hotel
1 North Broadway Ave
Oklahoma City, OK  73102
View map »

More information

Tired of the same old Halloween parties? Join Oklahoma River Cruises and let’s Haunt the River.  Enjoy the decorated boat, haunted tunes, light snacks and cash bar on board....

Cost: $35

Where:
Exchange Ave. Landing
1503 Exchange Ave.
Oklahoma City, OK  73108
View map »


Sponsor: Oklahoma River Cruises
Telephone: 405-702-7755
Contact Name: Che Loessberg
Website »

More information

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Cost: $50-$100

Where:
Dunlap Codding
609 W Sheridan Ave
Oklahoma City, OK  73102
View map »


Sponsor: OKC Girls Art School
Telephone: (405) 996-8373
Contact Name: Kiona Millirons
Website »

More information

From three-time Tony® winner and Hamilton choreographer, Andy Blankenbuehler, comes an inspiring new American musical that explodes with infectious music and high-octane, heart-stopping...

Cost: $30-$45

Where:
OCCC Visual and Performing Arts Center
7777 South May Avenue
Oklahoma City, OK  73159
View map »


Sponsor: INSURICA

More information

The immersive concert-style theater show chronicles the amazing journey shared by the folk-rock duo Paul Simon and Art Garfunkel. It tells the story from their humble beginnings as Tom &...

Cost: Varies

Where:
Hudiburg Chevrolet Center
6000 Prosper Blvd
Midwest City, OK  73110
View map »


Sponsor: OKC Broadway
Telephone: 405-594-8300
Website »

More information

OU University Theatre and Helmerich School of Drama present the dramatic comedy The Wolves. Left quad. Right quad. Lunge. A girl's indoor soccer team warms up. From the safety of their...

Cost: 10-35

Where:
Weitzenhoffer Theatre
563 Elm Ave.
Norman, OK  73019
View map »


Sponsor: OU University Theatre
Telephone: (405) 325-4101
Contact Name: Sandra Bent
Website »

More information

Show More...
Show Less...
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