Edit ModuleShow Tags
Edit ModuleShow Tags

Witch Way to Salem?

Spend a day in this town’s spell



 



A day trip to Salem, Massachusetts, from Boston is beautiful, historic and as witchy as you want it to be. Our recommendation is to go early and go heavy on the witchy. Especially if you are traveling in October – or June.
 

OK, October, sure: Witches and Halloween go together like spaghetti and meatballs. But why June? Stuff got real in Salem in June more than 300 years ago. That’s when the first witch was hanged.

Let’s start with a little Salem history primer. The town, which lies about 25 miles north of Boston, was founded in 1626 by Roger Conant and a group of immigrants from nearby Cape Ann. Salem was not its original name, but is derived from the Hebrew word for peace. It was first called Naumkeag, for the Native people who lived there.

In 1628, John Endicott led a group of settlers to the area who opened the door for thousands of Puritan settlers to arrive. Then, early in 1692, they freaked the heck out and began accusing one another of being witches, which led pretty quickly to the event that Salem is most known for: the Salem Witch Trials. In the space of three months, 19 innocent people were hanged and one man was pressed to death. The first witch hanging happened on June 10, 1692. More continued through the summer, with the final execution on Sept. 22.

Three centuries-plus later, our day in Salem began with a serene ferry ride across Boston Harbor. The sun was bright, the air was cool and the waters smooth. The city skyline from the harbor is beautiful, as are the small islands and coastal towns that lie between Boston and Salem. In just shy of an hour, we docked at Salem, hopped a trolley – and off we went to visit Lorelei the witch.

On our way to see her, we caught the highlights of Salem: the House of the Seven Gables, the Salem Witch Museum, the outstanding Peabody-Essex Museum, Salem Witch Trials Memorial, Witch House (the home of 17th-century witch trial judge Jonathan Corwin) and the oldest candy company in America, Ye Olde Pepper Companie. The small town is packed with historic sights, both witchy and non-witchy, and is easily and pleasantly walkable. When your dogs start to bark, just hop on the open-air trolley.

Lorelei Stathopoulos is the proprietor of Crow Haven Corner, Salem’s oldest witch shop. It’s everything you want a witch’s shop to be. The entry is up a tiny, narrow stair, and countless bowls and jars filled with ingredients – available by the ounce – fill a large table by the window. Books of spells, candles, jewelry, crystals, trinkets and a few T-shirts round out the merchandise available in the creaky-floored, incense-filled rooms.

Clockwise from top left: Fall sets an eerie scene over Salem’s Burying Point Cemetery; history haunts the Salem Witch Museum; the resting place of witch trial victim Giles Corey; Salem is best explored on foot; night falls on Hawthorne’s famed House of the Seven Gables.


I was there for a reading, and was seated in a small parlor filled with framed portraits of cats and dogs, crystal balls, a large golden bowl filled with stones, Egyptian furnishings, lurid floral wallpaper, lots of urns, jars of herbs and, in the corner, a creepy jester doll. Soon, I heard the clump, clump, clump of high heels on the old wooden floors and thought, with a little start, and a whisper in my heart, “She’s coming!”

Stathopoulos burst in like the sun and immediately made me feel perfectly at home. She’s a vivid concoction herself, a former burlesque star with bright white-blond hair, pink and blue highlights and an accent like your favorite East Coast auntie. She’s a vegan, and very involved in Salem’s animal rescue efforts.

“I always knew I was a witch,” she smiles. “I’ve recreated myself several times. My mother was an astrologer and my grandmother was magic. Things have always happened that I couldn’t explain. There was a shootout in a club I worked in – I knew from the start something was up, and when the shooting started I ran up the stairs and started shoving other girls into lockers to survive. After that, I retired, had my son and wanted some stability, so I came to Salem and opened my shop.

“I call myself a witch of action. I pay kindness forward. Your every thought is an action. It starts with how you wake up.”

She does just 10 readings a day, and during the course of my session, she said she saw New York City in my future. I shared with her that I would be there the following day. She said, “You are going to have an interaction with a famous person. You’re going to meet someone famous – not a television or movie star, though.”

Sure, I thought. And I’ll fly there on my broom. But can I tell you that two days later my husband and I met famed designer Bob Mackie in a clothing store. Coincidence or magic? You decide.


Documents surviving from the Salem Witch Trials


Getting Around

Holy Cannoli!

Arrive a little early for the Boston side of your ferry trip. After buying your tickets on Long Wharf, take a 7-minute walk to enjoy the best cannoli in Boston at Mike’s Pastry. Mike’s vies with cannoli rival Modern Pastry, across the street, for top honors. The only fair thing to do is to try both.

 

Dress to explore

Salem is small, so be prepared to walk it. Wear comfortable shoes and layers. A chilly ferry ride may be followed by a warm and sunny afternoon, followed by another breezy ride back to Boston.

 

End of the road

The ancient cemetery, the Burying Point, is a little more to the right than you think if you are coming from the north. Here lies Justice John Hathorne, an ancestor of Nathaniel Hawthorne and one of the judges in the Witchcraft Court, among many others. The tombstone reading is fascinating.

 

Head for Sea Level

Lunch at Sea Level Oyster Bar & Kitchen on Pickering Wharf is a treat for the senses. The views of beautiful nearby Marblehead across the harbor are quintessential New England, and the creamy, crispy and delicious Chowder Fries, a riff on the Canadian classic poutine, can easily be justified after all that walking!

 

The spell is broken at 5 p.m.

While you can certainly still walk around and enjoy the restaurants and historic markers of Salem, the majority of the town, including most of the museums, closes up shop at 5 p.m.

 

Edit ModuleShow Tags

Archive »You Might Like

deadCenter Kickoff

With the deadCenter Film Festival on the horizon, supporters set a course for the Governor’s Mansion and a preview party with a “yacht rock” theme.

A Race to Fight Cancer

Melanoma survivor Lynn Knippers discusses her cancer battle and encourages participation in the annual ACS Run For Hope July 20.

’Merica for the Win

Every country might have its own customs, but Lauren Roth argues that the U.S. way is the best in the world. Doggie bags and all.

Add your comment:
Edit ModuleShow Tags
Edit ModuleShow Tags
Edit ModuleShow Tags

Calendar

July 2019

A Texas State of Mind, featuring the art of Larry G. Lemons of Nocona, TX, is coming to the Chisholm Trail Heritage Center in Duncan, OK.  A meet the artist reception will be 3:30 - 6:30...

Cost: $4-$6

Where:
Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
1000 Chisholm Trail Parkway
www.onthechisholmtrail.com
Duncan, OK  73533
View map »


Sponsor: Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
Telephone: 580.252.6692
Contact Name: Toni Hopper
Website »

More information

Start your Sunday morning by perfecting your practice during our outdoor yoga class. Enjoy the beauty of yoga outdoors in the glow of the Ferris Wheel lights! This class welcomes all levels, from...

Cost: Free

Where:
Wheeler Ferris Wheel
1701 S. Western Ave.
Oklahoma City, OK  73109
View map »

More information

Featuring more than 70 works by French and European masters such as Degas, Manet, Monet, Rousseau and Van Gogh, this exhibition celebrates Mr. and Mrs. Paul Mellon’s extraordinary gift of...

Cost: $15

Where:
Oklahoma City Museum of Art
415 Couch Drive
Oklahoma City, OK  73102
View map »


Telephone: 405.236.3100
Website »

More information

A nationally touring exhibit “Bison: Ancient. Massive. Wild.” will open May 24 at the Chisholm Trail Heritage Center in Duncan, OK. This exhibit explores the significance of...

Cost: $4 - $6

Where:
Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
1000 Chisholm Trail Parkway
Duncan, OK  73533
View map »


Sponsor: Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
Telephone: 580.252.6692
Contact Name: Toni Hopper
Website »

More information

Show More...
Show Less...

A Texas State of Mind, featuring the art of Larry G. Lemons of Nocona, TX, is coming to the Chisholm Trail Heritage Center in Duncan, OK.  A meet the artist reception will be 3:30 - 6:30...

Cost: $4-$6

Where:
Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
1000 Chisholm Trail Parkway
www.onthechisholmtrail.com
Duncan, OK  73533
View map »


Sponsor: Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
Telephone: 580.252.6692
Contact Name: Toni Hopper
Website »

More information

A nationally touring exhibit “Bison: Ancient. Massive. Wild.” will open May 24 at the Chisholm Trail Heritage Center in Duncan, OK. This exhibit explores the significance of...

Cost: $4 - $6

Where:
Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
1000 Chisholm Trail Parkway
Duncan, OK  73533
View map »


Sponsor: Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
Telephone: 580.252.6692
Contact Name: Toni Hopper
Website »

More information

Show More...
Show Less...

Featuring more than 70 works by French and European masters such as Degas, Manet, Monet, Rousseau and Van Gogh, this exhibition celebrates Mr. and Mrs. Paul Mellon’s extraordinary gift of...

Cost: $15

Where:
Oklahoma City Museum of Art
415 Couch Drive
Oklahoma City, OK  73102
View map »


Telephone: 405.236.3100
Website »

More information

A nationally touring exhibit “Bison: Ancient. Massive. Wild.” will open May 24 at the Chisholm Trail Heritage Center in Duncan, OK. This exhibit explores the significance of...

Cost: $4 - $6

Where:
Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
1000 Chisholm Trail Parkway
Duncan, OK  73533
View map »


Sponsor: Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
Telephone: 580.252.6692
Contact Name: Toni Hopper
Website »

More information

A Texas State of Mind, featuring the art of Larry G. Lemons of Nocona, TX, is coming to the Chisholm Trail Heritage Center in Duncan, OK.  A meet the artist reception will be 3:30 - 6:30...

Cost: $4-$6

Where:
Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
1000 Chisholm Trail Parkway
www.onthechisholmtrail.com
Duncan, OK  73533
View map »


Sponsor: Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
Telephone: 580.252.6692
Contact Name: Toni Hopper
Website »

More information

Our summer series is geared toward teaching printmaking in the classroom. Each Tuesday night from 5:30-8 p.m., we will show several different ways to approach 4 printmaking styles. You will...

Cost: $75

Where:
ARTSPACE at Untitled
1 NE 3rd st
Oklahoma City, OK  73104
View map »


Telephone: 405.815.9995
Website »

More information

Show More...
Show Less...

A Texas State of Mind, featuring the art of Larry G. Lemons of Nocona, TX, is coming to the Chisholm Trail Heritage Center in Duncan, OK.  A meet the artist reception will be 3:30 - 6:30...

Cost: $4-$6

Where:
Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
1000 Chisholm Trail Parkway
www.onthechisholmtrail.com
Duncan, OK  73533
View map »


Sponsor: Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
Telephone: 580.252.6692
Contact Name: Toni Hopper
Website »

More information

Featuring more than 70 works by French and European masters such as Degas, Manet, Monet, Rousseau and Van Gogh, this exhibition celebrates Mr. and Mrs. Paul Mellon’s extraordinary gift of...

Cost: $15

Where:
Oklahoma City Museum of Art
415 Couch Drive
Oklahoma City, OK  73102
View map »


Telephone: 405.236.3100
Website »

More information

A nationally touring exhibit “Bison: Ancient. Massive. Wild.” will open May 24 at the Chisholm Trail Heritage Center in Duncan, OK. This exhibit explores the significance of...

Cost: $4 - $6

Where:
Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
1000 Chisholm Trail Parkway
Duncan, OK  73533
View map »


Sponsor: Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
Telephone: 580.252.6692
Contact Name: Toni Hopper
Website »

More information

Show More...
Show Less...

Featuring more than 70 works by French and European masters such as Degas, Manet, Monet, Rousseau and Van Gogh, this exhibition celebrates Mr. and Mrs. Paul Mellon’s extraordinary gift of...

Cost: $15

Where:
Oklahoma City Museum of Art
415 Couch Drive
Oklahoma City, OK  73102
View map »


Telephone: 405.236.3100
Website »

More information

A nationally touring exhibit “Bison: Ancient. Massive. Wild.” will open May 24 at the Chisholm Trail Heritage Center in Duncan, OK. This exhibit explores the significance of...

Cost: $4 - $6

Where:
Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
1000 Chisholm Trail Parkway
Duncan, OK  73533
View map »


Sponsor: Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
Telephone: 580.252.6692
Contact Name: Toni Hopper
Website »

More information

A Texas State of Mind, featuring the art of Larry G. Lemons of Nocona, TX, is coming to the Chisholm Trail Heritage Center in Duncan, OK.  A meet the artist reception will be 3:30 - 6:30...

Cost: $4-$6

Where:
Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
1000 Chisholm Trail Parkway
www.onthechisholmtrail.com
Duncan, OK  73533
View map »


Sponsor: Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
Telephone: 580.252.6692
Contact Name: Toni Hopper
Website »

More information

Show More...
Show Less...

Featuring more than 70 works by French and European masters such as Degas, Manet, Monet, Rousseau and Van Gogh, this exhibition celebrates Mr. and Mrs. Paul Mellon’s extraordinary gift of...

Cost: $15

Where:
Oklahoma City Museum of Art
415 Couch Drive
Oklahoma City, OK  73102
View map »


Telephone: 405.236.3100
Website »

More information

A Texas State of Mind, featuring the art of Larry G. Lemons of Nocona, TX, is coming to the Chisholm Trail Heritage Center in Duncan, OK.  A meet the artist reception will be 3:30 - 6:30...

Cost: $4-$6

Where:
Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
1000 Chisholm Trail Parkway
www.onthechisholmtrail.com
Duncan, OK  73533
View map »


Sponsor: Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
Telephone: 580.252.6692
Contact Name: Toni Hopper
Website »

More information

A nationally touring exhibit “Bison: Ancient. Massive. Wild.” will open May 24 at the Chisholm Trail Heritage Center in Duncan, OK. This exhibit explores the significance of...

Cost: $4 - $6

Where:
Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
1000 Chisholm Trail Parkway
Duncan, OK  73533
View map »


Sponsor: Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
Telephone: 580.252.6692
Contact Name: Toni Hopper
Website »

More information

You don’t want to miss Crossings' 11th Annual Beast Feast on July 26. You’ll enjoy a sportsman’s feast, hunting and fishing expo, fellowship, prizes, and a special...

Cost: $15

Where:
Crossings Community Church - OKC Campus
14600 North Portland Avenue
OKC, OK  73134
View map »


Sponsor: Crossings Community Church
Telephone: 405-302-1209
Contact Name: Pam Ingle
Website »

More information

The evening Cocktail Cruise offers stunning views of the downtown skyline, the Boathouse District & Finish Line Tower, the Wheeler Ferris wheel and, quite possibly, an amazing...

Cost: Adult: $20 Seniors and Children: $15

Where:
Regatta Park Landing
701 S. Lincoln Blvd
Oklahoma City, OK  73119
View map »


Sponsor: Oklahoma River Cruises
Telephone: 405-702-7755
Contact Name: Che Loessberg
Website »

More information

The evening Cocktail Cruise offers stunning views of the downtown skyline, the Boathouse District & Finish Line Tower, the Wheeler Ferris Wheel, and quite possibly an amazing Oklahoma...

Cost: Adults $20; Seniors and Children $15

Where:
Regatta Park Landing
701 S. Lincoln Blvd
Oklahoma City, OK  73119
View map »


Sponsor: Oklahoma River Cruises
Telephone: 405-702-7755
Contact Name: Che Loessberg
Website »

More information

Show More...
Show Less...

Featuring more than 70 works by French and European masters such as Degas, Manet, Monet, Rousseau and Van Gogh, this exhibition celebrates Mr. and Mrs. Paul Mellon’s extraordinary gift of...

Cost: $15

Where:
Oklahoma City Museum of Art
415 Couch Drive
Oklahoma City, OK  73102
View map »


Telephone: 405.236.3100
Website »

More information

A Texas State of Mind, featuring the art of Larry G. Lemons of Nocona, TX, is coming to the Chisholm Trail Heritage Center in Duncan, OK.  A meet the artist reception will be 3:30 - 6:30...

Cost: $4-$6

Where:
Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
1000 Chisholm Trail Parkway
www.onthechisholmtrail.com
Duncan, OK  73533
View map »


Sponsor: Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
Telephone: 580.252.6692
Contact Name: Toni Hopper
Website »

More information

Chisholm Trail Heritage Center in Duncan, OK, has many indoor activities planned for this year’s free National Day of the Cowboy celebration. A nationally-touring exhibit, Bison: Ancient....

Cost: Free

Where:
Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
1000 Chisholm Trail Parkway
Duncan, OK  73533
View map »


Sponsor: Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
Telephone: 580.252.6692
Contact Name: Stacy Moore
Website »

More information

A nationally touring exhibit “Bison: Ancient. Massive. Wild.” will open May 24 at the Chisholm Trail Heritage Center in Duncan, OK. This exhibit explores the significance of...

Cost: $4 - $6

Where:
Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
1000 Chisholm Trail Parkway
Duncan, OK  73533
View map »


Sponsor: Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
Telephone: 580.252.6692
Contact Name: Toni Hopper
Website »

More information

America’s largest interactive comedy murder mystery dinner show is now playing at the Skirvin Hilton Hotel. At The Dinner Detective, you’ll tackle a challenging crime while you...

Cost: $59.95

Where:
The Skirvin Hilton
1 Park Ave
Oklahoma City, OK  73102
View map »


Sponsor: The Dinner Detective
Telephone: 866.496.0535
Website »

More information

The evening Cocktail Cruise offers stunning views of the downtown skyline, the Boathouse District & Finish Line Tower, the Wheeler Ferris wheel and, quite possibly, an amazing...

Cost: Adult: $20 Seniors and Children: $15

Where:
Regatta Park Landing
701 S. Lincoln Blvd
Oklahoma City, OK  73119
View map »


Sponsor: Oklahoma River Cruises
Telephone: 405-702-7755
Contact Name: Che Loessberg
Website »

More information

The evening Cocktail Cruise offers stunning views of the downtown skyline, the Boathouse District & Finish Line Tower, the Wheeler Ferris Wheel, and quite possibly an amazing Oklahoma...

Cost: Adults $20; Seniors and Children $15

Where:
Regatta Park Landing
701 S. Lincoln Blvd
Oklahoma City, OK  73119
View map »


Sponsor: Oklahoma River Cruises
Telephone: 405-702-7755
Contact Name: Che Loessberg
Website »

More information

Show More...
Show Less...
Edit ModuleShow Tags
Edit Module Edit ModuleShow Tags