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Tsubaki’s Szechuan Specialties

Savor and spice from southwest China



 

 

One of the best things about Chinese food might be its ubiquity – chances are that wherever you happen to be at any given time, there’s probably someplace nearby that will sell you some sweet and sour pork. Even my fairly small home town in southeastern Oklahoma had a Western Sizzlin’, a nondescript Tex-Mex place, a scattering of fast food outlets … and Chan’s Oriental Restaurant. (Friday night was fried catfish night, but that’s another story.) From egg rolls in east L.A. to moo goo gai pan near the middle of nowhere, going out for Chinese is a breeze.

On the other hand, consider that mainland China is bigger than the contiguous U.S., with more than four times our population. As a category, “Chinese food” is an even looser catchall than “American food,” which can cover dishes from burgers to barbeque brisket to clam chowder. All of which is to say that yes, sesame chicken is delicious if done well, but if you’re given the chance to branch out a bit more into regional Chinese cuisine, you should try it. And fortunately for OKC diners, one such opportunity has joined the Asian District in the form of Tsubaki Szechuan.

A collaboration between Peter and Mandy Liu and partner Henry Yang (who runs Tsubaki Sushi on Memorial Road), its menu a tribute to the cuisine of the Szechuan (Sichuan) province in southwest China. In a coincidental similarity to the American southwest, the region has a well-deserved rep for spicy specialties, and several items on this menu are not playing around when it comes to rocking diners’ taste buds. But speaking of the menu, its most immediately impressive attribute is sheer size. It is, and I am not exaggerating, 27 pages. True, much of that space is taken up by color photos, but it would take weeks of dedicated visits to eat even halfway through – there’s simply a huge wealth of options to peruse and consider. So you should probably order some dumplings (see page 61) right away before getting too lost in the possibilities.

If you want familiarity, you can get classic lo mein or beef and broccoli; if you’re feeling more hardcore, they can whip up dishes based around tripe, tendons and kidneys. But the restaurant’s highest points are in the dishes just outside what Americans would consider standard Chinese fare, and the sweet spot – er, spicy spot – is generally found accompanied by little chili pepper icons.

Take, for example, the “Dry spicy tasty beef with ginger and peanut” (three peppers) – a mouthful in execution, as well as name. The ginger flavor takes a backseat to the smoked chilies for a delicious blend of textures and burst of flavor. There’s also a chance your plate, like ours, will have an unexpected passenger, in the form of a carrot carved into the shape of a surprisingly detailed roosting bird.

Manager Bao Nguyen calls the Mapo tofu (three peppers) “a classic Chinese dish that’s actually very hearty despite being tofu” – its sauce made from fermented black beans is a powerful example of Szechuan cuisine’s characteristic combination of hot and numbing spiciness. In general, I’m more likely to go for extra firm tofu as a matter of preference, but this dish makes a good case for the silky, almost creamy alternative.

The Authentic Szechuan fish filet is also listed at three peppers, although that seems low to me. It might be my fault for being insufficiently cautious with the Sichuan peppercorns; they aren’t overpowering individually, but they can combine their powers to become near-incapacitating if you don’t space them out. The fish beneath them – I believe it’s swai – is firm and tender, and its broth wonderfully fragrant. Unless you’ve wrecked your sense of smell because your nose is running from too many peppers.

One more recommendation, in case you’re not in the mood for quite so much zing – the crispy orange shredded beef has zero pepper icons, but might be my favorite thing I’ve found so far. Its short strands of beef are an ideal texture, and the thick, sticky sauce of garlic and ginger and orange peel is incredibly rich and addictive. This is a “try to discreetly scrape up a few more flecks off the empty plate before the waitress comes back” dish.

The Lius, Yang, Nguyen, the waitstaff and everyone involved have done well at bringing a specific regional cuisine across the world to share with OKC, and making the experience accessible to anyone. You don’t have to be able to name the Eight Cuisines of China to enjoy it; just grab some chopsticks – or even a fork – and shower your taste buds with spicy goodness.

 

 

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Calendar

October 2019

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Telephone: 405-815-9995
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Cost: Free!

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Telephone: 405-815-9995
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More information

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Cost: Free!

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Sponsor: Fred Jones Jr. Museum of Art
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Cost: Free!

Where:
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555 Elm Ave.
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Sponsor: Fred Jones Jr. Museum of Art
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More information

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Where:
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1 North Broadway Ave
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View map »

More information

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Contact Name: AL Caveny
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Cost: Varies

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Telephone: 405-594-8300
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Cost: Free!

Where:
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555 Elm Ave.
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View map »


Sponsor: Fred Jones Jr. Museum of Art
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More information

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Cost: Free

Where:
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Telephone: 405-815-9995
Website »

More information

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Cost: $175 for the full term

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The Paramount Room
701 W. Sheridan Ave
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View map »


Sponsor: The Space OKC
Telephone: 405-887-3327
Contact Name: AL Caveny
Website »

More information

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Cost: Free

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Sheraton Oklahoma City Downtown Hotel
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View map »

More information

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Cost: Varies

Where:
Civic Center Music Hall
201 N Walker Ave
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View map »


Sponsor: OKC Broadway
Telephone: 405-594-8300
Website »

More information

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Cost: $4-$6

Where:
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View map »


Sponsor: Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
Telephone: 580.252.6692
Contact Name: Toni Hopper
Website »

More information

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Cost: Free!

Where:
Fred Jones Jr. Museum of Art
555 Elm Ave.
Norman, OK  73019
View map »


Sponsor: Fred Jones Jr. Museum of Art
Website »

More information

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Cost: Free

Where:
Artspace at Untitled
1 NE 3rd st
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View map »


Telephone: 405-815-9995
Website »

More information

Willkommen to four days of Oompah (or Bavaria or Oktoberfest) in Oklahoma with nationally known German bands, authentic European foods, arts and  crafters MarktHaus, full carnival, and...

Cost: $7 in advance, $10 at the gate and FREE for children 12 and under

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River West Festival Park
2100 S. Jackson Ave.
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View map »


Sponsor: Linde
Website »

More information

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View map »


Sponsor: Nerfed Indoor Battle Arena
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More information

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Cost: Free

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1 North Broadway Ave
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View map »

More information

Professional instruction in the art of improvisation. Though some experience with improvisation is beneficial, all skill levels are welcome, no prerequisite classes.  Though sketch comedy...

Cost: $175 for the full term

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The Paramount Room
701 W. Sheridan Ave
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View map »


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Telephone: 405-887-3327
Contact Name: AL Caveny
Website »

More information

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Cost: Varies

Where:
Civic Center Music Hall
201 N Walker Ave
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View map »


Sponsor: OKC Broadway
Telephone: 405-594-8300
Website »

More information

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Cost: $35

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Exchange Ave. Landing
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View map »


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Website »

More information

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Cost: Free

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More information

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Cost: Free!

Where:
Fred Jones Jr. Museum of Art
555 Elm Ave.
Norman, OK  73019
View map »


Sponsor: Fred Jones Jr. Museum of Art
Website »

More information

Forms Through Language: an exhibition by San Francisco Artist Gyöngy Laky. On view September 12 – October 31. Free and open to the public. Join us for Laky's Artist Reception on...

Cost: Free

Where:
Artspace at Untitled
1 NE 3rd st
Oklahoma City, OK  73104
View map »


Telephone: 405-815-9995
Website »

More information

Whether it’s a pair of deer in the woods of Oklahoma, or the delicate points of a snowflake in Wisconsin, Maud photographer Sarah Rodefeld is patient and steady as she aims her lens. ...

Cost: $4-$6

Where:
Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
1000 Chisholm Trail Parkway
Duncan, OK  73533
View map »


Sponsor: Chisholm Trail Heritage Center
Telephone: 580.252.6692
Contact Name: Toni Hopper
Website »

More information

Willkommen to four days of Oompah (or Bavaria or Oktoberfest) in Oklahoma with nationally known German bands, authentic European foods, arts and  crafters MarktHaus, full carnival, and...

Cost: $7 in advance, $10 at the gate and FREE for children 12 and under

Where:
River West Festival Park
2100 S. Jackson Ave.
Tulsa, OK  74107
View map »


Sponsor: Linde
Website »

More information

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Cost: $50

Where:
ARTSPACE at Untitled
1 NE 3rd St
Oklahoma City, OK  73104
View map »


Sponsor: ARTSPACE at Untitled
Telephone: 405-815-9995
Contact Name: Meredith Zerby
Website »

More information

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Cost: Free

Where:
Sheraton Oklahoma City Downtown Hotel
1, N Broadway Ave
Oklahoma City, OK  73102
View map »

More information

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Cost: $59.95

Where:
The Skirvin Hilton
1 Park Ave
Oklahoma City, OK  73102
View map »


Sponsor: The Dinner Detective
Telephone: 866.496.0535
Website »

More information

This is one interactive haunted experience you WILL NOT want to miss! Will you be the one left behind or will your tactical skills get you to the other side?! Bring your friends and family to our...

Cost: $8

Where:
Nerfed Indoor Battle Arena
1 East Main St.
Shawnee, OK  74801
View map »


Sponsor: Nerfed Indoor Battle Arena
Telephone: 405-585-1321
Contact Name: Beau & Misty Dorrough
Website »

More information

Come pre-party with us on the patio this Saturday at the Sheraton Hotel. Enjoy our signature cocktail drinks and food bar menu. DJ Catherine Ouellette will be spinning your favorite tunes...

Cost: Free

Where:
Sheraton Oklahoma City Downtown Hotel
1 North Broadway Ave
Oklahoma City, OK  73102
View map »

More information

Professional instruction in the art of improvisation. Though some experience with improvisation is beneficial, all skill levels are welcome, no prerequisite classes.  Though sketch comedy...

Cost: $175 for the full term

Where:
The Paramount Room
701 W. Sheridan Ave
Oklahoma City, OK  73102
View map »


Sponsor: The Space OKC
Telephone: 405-887-3327
Contact Name: AL Caveny
Website »

More information

Winner of four Tony Awards, including Best Musical Revival, HELLO, DOLLY! is the universally acclaimed smash that NPR calls “the best show of the...

Cost: Varies

Where:
Civic Center Music Hall
201 N Walker Ave
Oklahoma City, OK  73102
View map »


Sponsor: OKC Broadway
Telephone: 405-594-8300
Website »

More information

Tired of the same old Halloween parties? Join Oklahoma River Cruises and let’s Haunt the River.  Enjoy the decorated boat, haunted tunes, light snacks and cash bar on board....

Cost: $35

Where:
Exchange Ave. Landing
1503 Exchange Ave.
Oklahoma City, OK  73108
View map »


Sponsor: Oklahoma River Cruises
Telephone: 405-702-7755
Contact Name: Che Loessberg
Website »

More information

Show More...
Show Less...
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