Japan may be 6,300 miles — and a whole ocean — away from Oklahoma City, but thanks to a new izakaya and sushi bar northwest of Lake Hefner, it’s never felt closer. Awaji Izakaya, which opened last year in the Walnut Village shopping center at 12305 N. Rockwell Ave., doesn’t look like much from its nondescript facade, but upon entry it’s a transportive experience unlike anything else in the city. The cozy, wood-paneled space is lined with paper lanterns, sake bottles and Nintendo characters, weaving guests through a snug maze of nooks, crannies and multiple bars, including an intimate sushi counter in the back where chef Richard Ly puts on veritable dinner theater — and proves his mettle as the mightiest sushi chef in Oklahoma.
Ly is a Vietnamese chef who grew up in the Dallas-Fort Worth area, and clocked time in local Japanese restaurants before moving to OKC in 2013. He subsequently assumed roles at PF Chang’s corporate and, most recently and impressively, Jimmy B’s Culinary + Krafted. It was here where Ly got to really flex his sushi skills, putting out some of the best and brightest maki (rolls) in the metro. His dream, though, was to open a place of his very own. “I decided to go on my own and open a really good sushi place, like in Los Angeles or Dallas,” said Ly, citing iconic institutions like Nobu and Uchi as inspiration. “It’s time to bring that to Oklahoma City.”
Awaji’s initial transportive sensation is intentional for Ly, who infuses authenticity into every facet of the experience, from the decor to the nigiri. “When you walk in, you take yourself away from Oklahoma,” he said. “The atmosphere is a Japanese gastropub, and my passion is to bring good food, Japanese culture and fresh, high-quality fish.”
For many guests, Awaji will be equally enlightening, showing what real-deal sushi and Japanese gastropub fare can be. The vast menu contains plates small and large, comprising everything from sushi rolls and yakitori skewers to dumplings and curries — all of which are diligently prepared, delicately sliced and presented with the precision of an artist who has clearly spent years honing his craft. Sourcing the finest fish and seafood from all over the world, from bluefin tuna to Norwegian mackerel, Ly spares no expense when it comes to ingredients, a sentiment echoed in the craftsmanship. Scratch-made pork dumplings come drizzled in ponzu; miso soup gets flecked with crispy morsels of fried tofu; and pressed sushi rolls, an Osaka-style tradition, come out looking like layered jewels with ruby-red tuna, avocado and spicy mayo.
Of the hotter plates, Japanese grilled skewers are speared with the likes of plump chicken breast, smoky beef tenderloin and shiitake mushrooms, while katsu curry — a fragrant, panko-breaded pork cutlet wafting Japanese spices — arrives atop a stew of edamame, onions and carrots. Don’t miss Ly’s rendition of a Volcano Roll, an explosive medley of crawfish or shrimp, served warm amid a gumbo-like sauce of spicy miso mayo and sesame, piled over a California roll.
In addition to the sizable menu, keep your eyes peeled for rotating specials and off-menu highlights, which Ly features when available, like slivers of raw, pearl-colored raw scallop nigiri topped with caviar, or buttery burrata — atypical of sushi restaurants — that defies expectations when perfectly paired with smoked trout, trout roe and nori chips.
For Ly, a chef who is steadily establishing a pedigree as the state’s foremost sushi star, Awaji Izakaya is an opportunity to build off Oklahoma City’s momentum as a growing, culture-rich metropolis. “If I close my eyes, I imagine I’m in Dallas,” he said. “Oklahoma City is ready for something like this.”
